We had to be at Alhambra at 7:30 am (which is pitch black this time of year and was really, really cold) in order to pick up our tickets and be in line for the Nasrid Palace before our 8:30 time slot (the number of people allowed into the Nasrid Palace is very limited so you have to go in during your time slot or you miss out!). We spent 5 hours at Alhambra, but you could easily spend the entire day.
Alhambra is a palace and fortress complex originally built in 889 for the last Muslim emirs (royalty) in Spain and its court of the Nasrid dynasty. After the Reconquista in 1492 some portions were used for Christian rulers and in 1527 Charles V, Holy Roman Emperer built a palace here within the Nasrid fortifications. The complex is divided into four main components: Alcazaba (the 13th century fortress), Palacios Nazaries (Royal Nasrid Palaces), the Generalife (the sultan’s summer palace and gardens), and the Palace of Charles V. The inside of the Nasrid Palaces are decorated with columns, muqarnas (which is architectural ornamentation that look similar to stalactites that can be in the domes of many of the rooms in the Nasrid Palaces), painted tiles, arabesques, and calligraphy. Arabesques (per Wikipedia) are surface decorations based on rhythmic linear patters or scrolling and interlacing foliage, tendrils, or plain lines. These were often around windows (there are examples in the pictures below, they are just beautiful!). The Alcazaba served a military function – this is where the sultan would plan defensive strategy during war time and was a small city where the royal guards who patrolled the city lived. From the walls of the Alcazaba were beautiful views of Granada. The Palace of Charles V looks pretty different from the rest of the complex since it was built in a Roman style. Its addition to the previously Muslim complex was to symbolize the triumph of Christianity over Islam. Inside there is a large open round space that we could see, but the inside is not still intact (it actually wasn’t finished until the 1900’s during restoration of the complex) and is currently where two museums are located. The Generalife was built between the 12th and 14th centuries as a place of rest for the Royals. It was designed as a rural villa in the vicinity of the Alhambra, with decorative gardens, fruit and vegetable patches, courts and other structures. The Generalife may be my favorite part of the entire complex. There is a lot more detail I could go into on Alhambra, but this post would be 10 pages long.. sooo I’ll let the pictures do the talking and you can always read up on the history more on the internet. Here is a good website I found: http://www.alhambra-patronato.es.
We drove back to our apartment from Alhambra to park our car and then walked into town to do a little more sightseeing. We ate a late lunch and then visited the Monastery of San Jerónimo. It has a beautiful two-tiered cloister and a very ornately frescoed church. We couldn’t get over the altarpiece! Next we ran (in the rain) to the Cathedral which was finished in 1563. Size wise it seemed just as big as the Cathedral in Seville, but from what I’ve read it must be a bit smaller. The aisles were fairly plain (all white with huge columns and arches), but the nave and some of the chapels were really beautifully done. I really like the blue ceiling with gold stars in the nave dome.
Next we ran (literally) around the Cathedral in the pouring down rain to get to the entrance of the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel). The Catholic Monarchs Fernando and Isabel commissioned it after the fall of Moorish Granada as their own mausoleum. The King and Queen have amazing carved Carrera marble sarcophagi and there is a museum that contains Isabel’s crown and scepter, her ornate jewelry chest, Fernando’s sword, and an impressive art collection. Sadly you aren’t allowed to take pictures in here, so you’ll have to look it up online! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Chapel_of_Granada
At this point we are soaked (my Toms are totally soaked through) so we went in a little café and ordered some café con leche and churros con chocolate (which was amazing). We walked around town a little more looking in some of the stores to give me and Morgan a break – this whole area had huge marble or granite tiles that I keep slipping on! Without Morgan’s help I probably would have broken something. At this point it is getting dark, so we start walking back towards our place (it takes about 40 min to walk there – though the listing said it was a “short 15 min walk” – yeah right!) and stop at a restaurant the apartment owner had suggested. Bodegas Espadafor was a place “locals” go and turned out to be really good and very reasonably priced. With each round of wine the owner brought us a tapa that paired with it – he was really nice and helpful!
Granada – Bodegas Espadafor
Granada – Bodegas Espadafor
Granada – Bodegas Espadafor
Granada
Granada
Granada – shopping area (the one with the slippery tiles)
Granada – café con leche and churros con chocolate! yummy
Granada – Capilla Real
Granada
Granada – Cathedral
Granada – Cathedral – another view of the alter
Granada – Cathedral – One of the organs (huge and really beautiful!)
Granada – Cathedral – looking down the nave with organs on either side
Granada – Cathedral – looking up at the dome
Granada – Cathedral – One of the chapels – Shrine of Our Lady of the Old
Granada – Cathedral – one of the chapels
Granada – Cathedral – One of the chapels – Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza
Granada – inside the Cathedral
Granada – Cathedral
Granada – the side of the Cathedral
Granada – Pomegranates are everywere in Granada! – which is fitting since the town was named after them
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo – the ceiling
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo – check out that alter!
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – colorful church dome
Granada – yep, the poop stuck to the tree trunk.. that takes talent!
Granada – while eating lunch we watched this little dog poop up on the tree trunk.. it was pretty hilarious
Granada – the Monastery of San Jerónimo
Granada – on the drive back from Alhambra
Granada – on the drive back from Alhambra
Alhambra – Generalife – Upper Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – Romantic Mirador – that top floor must have great views!
Alhambra – Generalife – Water Stairway (that is a water channel in the railing.. it sounded so relaxing!)
Alhambra – Generalife
Alhambra – Generalife
Alhambra – Generalife – another view of the Patio de la Sultana
Alhambra – Generalife – Patio de la Sultana (Court of the Sultana) – pretty ivy
Alhambra – Generalife – Patio de la Sultana (Court of the Sultana)
Alhambra – Generalife – Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)
Alhambra – Generalife
Alhambra – Generalife – Patio de la Sultana (Court of the Sultana)
Alhambra – Generalife – Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)
Alhambra – Generalife – view from Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Water Channel)
Alhambra – Generalife – Lower Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – Lower Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – Lower Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – the Lower Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – view of from the Lower Generalife Gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – Lower Generalife gardens
Alhambra – Generalife – walkway detail
Alhambra – Alcazaba- Jardin de los Adarves (Wall Walk Garden)
Alhambra – Alcazaba- another view from Torre de la Polvora
Alhambra – Alcazaba- Torre del Homenaje
Alhambra – Alcazaba- another view from Torre de la Vela
Alhambra – Alcazaba- Morgan walking through Plaza de Armas (where the soldiers living quarters were)
Alhambra – Alcazaba- view from Torre de la Polvora (Gunpowder Tower)
Alhambra – Alcazaba- view from Torre de la Vela
Alhambra – Alcazaba – walking up the stairs to Torre de la Vela (Watchtower)
Alhambra – Alcazaba – view from Torre del Cubo (Round Tower)
Alhambra – Alcazaba – for you Morgan!
Alhambra – the view of the Nazrid Palaces and the Palace of Charles V from the entrance to Alcazaba
Alhambra – snack break before going into Alcazaba
Alhambra – Alcazaba- the military area
Alhambra – Puera del Vino (Wine Gate) – Debussy’s song “Puerta del Vino” was inspired by this gate
Alhambra – Puera del Vino (Wine Gate) – Debussy’s song “Puerta del Vino” was inspired by this gate
Alhambra – Palacio de Carlos V
Alhambra – inside Palacio de Carlos V
Alhambra – inside Palacio de Carlos V
Alhambra – Tourist Police?
Alhambra – Church of Santa Maria de la Alhambra
Alhambra – Church of Santa Maria de la Alhambra
Alhambra – Mosque baths – the ceiling had star shaped holes
Alhambra – Mosque baths
Alhambra – Mosque baths
Alhambra – Mosque baths
Alhambra
Alhambra
Alhambra – Partal Gardens
Alhambra – Partal gardens – this is what is needed at Holly Hedge!
Alhambra – Palacio del Partal (Partal Palace)
Alhambra – looking up at Santa Maria de la Alhambra from the Partal gardens
Alhambra – where did Morgan go?
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – the Lindaraja Balcony
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Sala de los Reyes (Hall of the Kings) – used for receptions/celebrations
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Sala de Abencerrages (Hall of the Abencerrages) – some more of the wall detail
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Sala de Abencerrages (Hall of the Abencerrages) -the ceiling..”A spectacular vault decorated with eight-point star-shaped stalactites that open out on eight elephant-like trunks”
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Sala de Abencerrages (Hall of the Abencerrages) wall detail
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – entry way to Sala de Abencerrages (Hall of the Abencerrages)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de los Leones – close up of the lion fountain
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – arch detail in the Hall of the Muqarnas
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de Arrayares
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de Arrayares with Morgan in action..
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – doorway off the Patio de Arrayares
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Chamber of the Ambassadors or Throne Room
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Chamber of the Ambassadors or Throne Room
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Chamber of the Ambassadors or Throne Room – close up of the Arabesques that cover the walls
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Chamber of the Ambassadors or Throne Room in the Torre de Comares (Comares Tower)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Chamber of the Ambassadors or Throne Room in the Torre de Comares (Comares Tower) – celing detail
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – colorful tiles with an Arabesque border
Alhambra – Nasrid Palace – ceiling in the Room of the Ship
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de Arrayares (Court of the Myrtles)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Patio de Arrayares (Court of the Myrtles)
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – notice the muqarnas in the niche?
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – colorful tile mosaics
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Mexuar – the place where the Counsel of Ministers met. It was also the place where the Sultan dispensed justice.
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces- Façade of Comares Palace – the division between the administrative and personal/residential parts of the palace
Alhambra – Nasrid Palaces – Entrance to the Golden Room
Alhambra – a little more waiting in line…
Alhambra – sun rising while we wait
Alhambra – waiting in line for the Nasrid Palace to open up. There was a bride in her wedding dress at the front of the line waiting to take pictures there… she must have been freezing! It was only 40 degrees (Fahrenheit, not Celcius!)
Alhambra – King Charles V Palace
Alhambra – walking (running) to the entrance of the Nasrid Palace so we get in at our time slot (on the right is St. Mary Church and next we’d be passing the Palace of King Charles V)
